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Cambodia.

Wed Dec 25, 2013 7:37 pm

Trying to build my blog about my journeys through, Turkey, Russia, Czech Republic, Thailand, Holland,
Eastern Europe and south America . Been looking for the Cardiff fan who would be kind enough to help me so if you read this then Please drop me a line.

Sorry I can't post pictures in the main points in the story to give you an insight on the places and bars but haven't a clue how to upload them to here.

Dug this out so thought I'd post it, be warned it fairly long ;)


Thailand, Bangkok Airport. (Don Mange) Now the main one is Suvarnabhumi Airport.

Came out the Airport and decided to head east towards Cambodia, I didn't fancy staying on Khao san road after what happened to me last year. And plus by heading east first would break up the journey.

Tried to find a bus but to no avail as buses stop running at midday to where I was heading, I was going to stay in pattaya (Sex capital of Thailand) for a couple of days and book some transport to Cambodia from there.

The only option i had was a taxi, so got a taxi and after haggling we came to 1,800 baht (£24) of the meter.

Arrived in Pattaya two hours later and got dropped of on the seafront Thanon hat Pattaya and headed to the nearest bar and got a beer. I knew where i was going to stay so thought I'd just relax for an hour before I check in and just down for some beer and watch a live British footy game. Afterwards I headed to the Pattaya palladium hotel which is situated along Thanon Pattaya 2 road and my apartment cost 1,000 baht a night. 1,000 baht is a bargain considering what you get for that and my room was on the 9th floor and had en-suit bathroom, 2 double beds, television, phone and a balcony with panoramic views over Pattaya bay.

Had a wash and put all my valuables in the safety deposit box which is situated at the receptionist, And then headed out into the sleazy city because that's what it is.

Walked out the hotel and walked straight into the lady boys cabaret, This place has 20 Go-Go bars and in the center is a stage where lady boys perform, I saw a performance by them last time I was in Pattaya, not of my own choice but had to after getting arrested in Bangkok and Pattaya was the only destination where i could get money sent out and was the only place I could think of at the time.


After 20 minutes I left and got a taxi to Thanon Pattaya 2 road and headed down a side street Soi 9 and to my drinking den, arrived and sat in the same place as last time and got myself a beer and watched some football. That's the good thing about Thailand, It doesn't matter what part of the country your in, there is always live Premiership football on. Had about 10 beers and was deciding how to get to Cambodia, I could of flown too Siem Reap but that would of defeated the object. I've been told by fellow backpackers that the road travel is shocking. So i thought about Train or Bus? I decided against the train as I've heard your liable to get mugged and that's one thing I wanted to avoid at all cost because they carry guns and if you refuse to hand over your valuables then they'll shoot you without hesitation and even in the lonely planet they advise from train travel. So opted for the safe route which is mini bus then bus from the Cambodia border. Left the bar and found myself a travel agent and booked my ticket which cost 1,600 baht from Pattaya to Siem Reap (Cambodia) which would leave the next day at 9am.

Got back to my hotel and packed my rucksack as I couldn't be bothered to do the next morning. Got up and checked out and headed to the pick up point. The mini bus arrived at 10am. The mini bus was a 12 seated and only had 4 other people on board and they was only doing the visa run so looked like I'd be traveling down through Cambodia on my own. After about an hour this chap who is an editor for a Farang magazine said something about where i was heading to and I replied Cambodia, he then went into what to expect when crossing the Thai-Cambodia border, I don't think these people realize that backpackers do read up on countries that we're visiting and build a mental picture up of what to expect, etc.

I got the wrong impression of him at first but he turned out to be a really nice person. As we was chatting we came to a police road block and they was checking all vehicles, I should of said just ours because I hadn't seen another vehicle for ages. Our driver got out and spoke to an officer and the other two was looking at us. We all got out and had out bags searched and made sure I was there for when they searched my bag, wouldn't want them slipping something inside without me knowing then paying a fine for any illegal substance that suddenly appeared.

After the search then we was on our way again and we finally stopped at a small village where you get your visas processed and I handed over my passport and $20 to our driver and he went of to get my visa then our driver arrived back and handed me my passport, My visa had taken a whole page just like the Thailand visa which i quite liked as I was becoming something of a stamp collector now. My driver asked if I wanted to change any money up because you'll not get time when you reach Poipet because it's heads down and just keep moving as fast as possible. Arrived at Poipet which is the Thai-Cambodia border.

Before arriving at the border I've heard a few horror stories about the border crossing and thought I'd be ready for anything that awaits me.

The atmosphere changed from being humorous and laughter to sort of morbid, These lot have experienced this hundreds of times as they do the visa run once a month, Me, We'll I'm just about to find out what the meaning of what sad, depressing, poverty, really means.

As we pulled into Poipet which is the Thai-Cambodia border I was told to put my valuables into my rucksack and keep my wallet in my front pocket, Don't talk to children and just follow the person who'll meet you of the mini bus. We came to a halt and we all got off, It was bedlam. There was thousands of people, trading everything you could imagine and we was met by at least 50 children, Most of them just wearing t-shirts, They swamped us like we were movie stars. I couldn't move, They was pulling me left to right, Pleading for money, They were crying. Shit, It was bad but nothing compared to what the Cambodia side is like.

I finally got my rucksack out of the mini bus and was met by a Cambodian lad who said he'd take care of me and showed me his official document. He said follow me and stay close, He asked me not to give any money to the Cambodian children on the other side of the border because If i did then it'll make things a hundred times worse for everyone. I could understand what he's saying. You give any one money and the word will spread like wild fire and the next week more children would turn up seeking money from tourists.

As we walked I noticed a young girl next to me, She was about 8 years old, She was wearing a t-shirt, holes in her jeans and no shoes and she had an arm missing and was holding an umbrella which she was trying to hold above my head to keep the sun of me, It was a pointless exercise really considering I'm 5'11 and she was about 4ft9 and the umbrella came to about my eyes, full respect to her for trying. I just smiled at her and kept moving. As we went into the Thai customs I could see dust on the Cambodia side and nothing else. as i disappeared inside, The little girl was just standing there. I felt really sorry for her but couldn't do nothing to help.

As the Thai officials stamped my passport I was happy to be in there and not outside, It was full on out there and to be honest it wasn't nothing i thought it would be like but worse. After the Thai official finished processing me he then pointed to the exit door which would bring me out into Cambodia.

As I opened the door and walked out into Cambodia it hit me for six. I knew it would be bad but not this bad, It felt like I'd just been sent back in time and it looked like a civil war was taken place. It's so hard to explain what it's like but you really have to see it to believe it. My Cambodian friend appeared and so did that Cambodian girl with that umbrella. As we walked I didn't know where to look. The Cambodia customs was about 100 yards on the right. we kept to the left and as i was walking I couldn't help but look at all the people lying around, There were people from all ages, Some had arms missing, some had legs, some had eyes, I went pass one boy/girl and it had every limb missing. It had just a head and a body slumped on a box.

There wasn't a road, it was just dust. There wasn't a tree in sight, the buildings looked like it had just been bombed, People crying out for help and I couldn't do sod all to help them. They say Thailand is a third world country, Well I'll tell you this, Thailand is like the UK or the USA or any other western country compared to Cambodia.

As we were walking we passed under the arch that reads ''Welcome to Cambodia'' but I think that should be renamed welcome to hell. Because that is what these people are living.

Got to the Cambodia passport control and was about to enter then stopped and looked down on this girl. Now I know I wasn't meant to give anyone money but full credit to this girl, She had followed me from the Thai side and waited for me on the Cambodia side and tried so hard to impress me that I decided to make her day or even week or even a month. I got my wallet out and gave her $5 dollars. It might not seem a lot but to her that will be enough to buy fresh drinking water and food for a week or so for her and the family. She just smiled and bowed. Then she was gone. Probably raced back to see if she could find another generous person as she must be thinking it's her lucky day. At least I made someone's day.

The officials stamped my my passport and I was through, we walked to this tiny shop where there was other backpackers. Put my bag down and got a drink and had a cigarette, I had given up but after I just witnessed all that I needed one so bought a pack. So much for will power.

We was told that we would be leaving in half an hour and that half an hour turned into one then 2 hours, by now we all was restless and just wanted to get going. Everyone didn't say much while we waited, Probably due to witnessing the scenes when crossing the border.

2 hours and 20 minutes and the bus turns up, I just laughed when I saw it. This bus had half the windows missing, The wheels were like tractor wheels and the bus was the most peculiar looking thing I've ever seen in my entire life. some of us asked if the so called bus would make it to Siem Reap? He just laughed.

In our group was me the only Englishman, 3 dutch, 1 New Zealander, 3 Australians, 2 Swedish, 2 danes and one German. We didn't say much till the battle bus got going. I sat at the back and this New Zealander sat in front, he wasn't happy because his chair was broken. he had to sit up right because if he sat back then he would of been laying on my lap, so to help this poor chap out I raised my knees to support the back of his chair which would enable him to have a comfortable journey. And a comfortable journey it wouldn't be for any of us but the reverse effect.

Now I must try and explain what this journey is like, The road from Poipet to Siem Reap is probably one of the worst in the world. The road is just dust and full of pot holes, not just any pot holes, These pot holes are a foot deep and not just every few miles but every 5 inches, The only way I can describe how it feels is just imagine going over the sleeping policeman on British roads, But not ever 20 yards but every inch. You are constantly being thrown around like a rag doll and the dust from on coming traffic fills the super bus with yellow dust and had to put up with this for 9 hours.

You are lucky in that the super bus stops of twice to allow you a drink, Problem with this is that you are greeted with people trying to sell you stuff and believe you me they don't take no for an answer. I found the easiest way out of it or what I thought would be the easiest way out is to buy a drink, How wrong was I, I brought two cans of beer and then had the whole tribe on my case. Couldn't get rid of them, They even followed me onto the bus and after they got off they wouldn't allow it to move unless I brought beer from the rest, I know I'm generous but enough is enough.

We finally got going again and trying to drink that beer was an impossible task, Every time I tried to take a sip we hit a pot hole and most of the can ended up over my face, in the end I had to ditch it to everyone's amusement.

At last, We finally arrive in Siem Reap. We all got off the battle bus and got taken to guesthouse 9, They don't have names but numbers. On arriving I was shown my room if I wanted to stay, It was about 10.30 in the evening so everyone stayed because it was to late to hunt around for bargain places. I wasn't fussed as it would only cost $4 a night and couldn't see anyone finding anything cheaper. I unpacked and flaked out on the bed as was totally knackered.

4am and a knock at my door, It was sunrise ( the lad name after sunrise) asking me to join everyone at Angkor Wat for the Sunrise, I Laughed and just said you're having a laugh mate and passed on the invitation and told him to wake me at midday. 1pm and I got up, Sunrise had to take me to Angkor Wot to get my pass for the temples. I got a 2 day pass which cost $10 dollars.

Got back to the guesthouse at 3pm and had dinner and just chatting to the others who was on the battle bus. Got friendly with one of the dutch and the New Zealander. Both male and seemed ok, we decided after seeing sunset at Angkor we would check out Siem Reap.

Sunrise and me headed to Angkor Wat and parked our scooter next to the ruins and I made my way with about a hundred others to the top of this hill, Climbing up was a mission on it's own. When you reached the top the views was breathtaking, You could see the horizon in all direction's, The sunset was amazing. When the sun got lower and lower it produced so many different colors in the sky that it reminds of the northern lights. Climbed back down to my waiting chauffeur and back to the guesthouse.

After some grub the Zealand lad and dutch lad appeared at the same time and asked if I was ready to check the town/city out, We must of walked 2 miles without seeing a pub, We walked passed a hooker joint (which I did get the temptation) but couldn't as was with these two and could tell they wasn't up for it. We then hailed a taxi down and we jumped in as I wanted to meet other backpackers but it was getting late for them (10pm) so they decided to go back to the guesthouse so I got out and got into another taxi and got taken to the Angkor Wat bar and what a bar, proper back packers bar and got hammered then walked home and that is the problem with backpackers, some take their eye of the ball meaning they come complacent thinking it's not a bad country and is safe and that's when people come unstuck. I was walking home and came to the part where I had to walk along the canal and it's unlit. I had roughly 500 yards to the footbridge and a car pulled up and went slowly down to where I had to cross, I just stopped in my tracks, gut feeling something was wrong as this car with lads in just stopped and turned it's engine off. I had a horrible feeling I was going to get mugged when I walked passed so went back into town and got a taxi home.

Got back and told sunrise what had happened and even he said I made the right choice.

My son went to Cambodia...and never returned- http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-428046/My-son-went-Cambodia--returned.html


Next day got up and headed to Angkor Wat, Sunrise dropped me off and I headed into the main temple. If any of you have the chance then you should visited Angkor Wat, It is truly one of the wonders of the world well that what they say in the news and papers, supposed to be one of the 7 wonders in the world.

Angkor Wot, the largest monument of the Angkor Wot group and one of the most intact, is an architectural masterpiece. Its perfection in composition, balance, proportions, reliefs and sculpture make it one of the finest monuments in the world. This temple is an expression of Khmer art at its highest point of development. The temples at Angkor were built between the 9th and 14th centuries.

I spent a good 3 hours in the main temple because the sculpture is brilliant, I visited another 2 and headed back to my guesthouse. I seen the main one and that was good enough for me.

Made my way back to my Guesthouse and asked Sunrise to book me a boat ticket to Phenom Penh, Really wanted to make a move now, been here for a while and got itchy feet so it's time I moved on. Phenom Penh is what I was really came to Cambodia for.

Sunrise booked the ticket which cost $20 and the fast boat would take just under 4 hours from Siem Reap to Phenom Penh, If you wanted to you could always take the road which is cheap but after experiencing that battle bus journey then you would be crazy to take that route unless you really had to budget and I mean budget.

Woke at 6am and had a light breakfast, then jumped on the back of sunrises scooter and raced through the dusty back lanes to the boat. On arriving it was packed with people selling all kinds of stuff, The fisherman had their daily catch set up on stools trying to sell to us Farangs, I had a little chuckle at one trader. I asked the trader who was trying to sell a huge snake (I hate snakes) for $20, What am I suppose to do with it if I purchase it? The thing was so big it would of taken two people to carry it. He replied, Eat it.

Next stop, Phenom Penh,

Arrived in Phenom Penh around 1pm. Grabbed my bag and headed up the walkway to where all the touts were waiting, Luckily I decided to have someone meet me as I knew it would extremely hard to communicate with the locals and would be very hard to find a place so thought by having someone who could speak a little English would be beneficial to me.

My little guide was waiting with my name on his placard, He seemed nice enough and said he would fined me a good guesthouse. Climbed on the back of his moped and off we went through the heat and smog of central Phnom Penh. After 20 minutes we arrived at a guesthouse in central PH, Phil, who wanted to be called said he'd look after my bag while I was shown my room. The room was on the 8th floor of a restaurant. Didn't like the place even before I entered the restaurant because it was situated in a not to nice area and you have to walk through the main restaurant to the back then climb a metal spiral staircase and the room was small and to be honest, depressing, plus I thought $25 for the night was steep.

I came back out and said no. Phil probably gets a commission for bringing tourist to some places but I want a place that I feel comfy in and not to far from lively places, So then Phil said he knows a very good place and full credit to him, he didn't let me down either as the guesthouse was in the middle of the backpackers playground.

We went to another guesthouse and when we pulled up outside I instantly thought this is the place I'd be spending my next few days at. It was called the Washington Guesthouse and situated on Phlauv 51 road. Went in and viewed the room which was on the first floor, It had a double bed, hot shower, air conditioned and plus the whole place looked clean and tidy and the best bit is, It only cost $8 dollars a night.

Told Phil it was pointless doing any sightseeing that day as it was getting late so he said he'd be back at 9 in the morning, But before he left we came to an arrangement about how much I'd pay him for his services, The going rate for a day is between 6-8 dollars. I liked him and after he said If i get lost then ring him at any time and he'll come and pick me up then I decided I'd give him $12 dollars a day. He was extremely pleased with that. Not surprising considering the average wage is 40 dollars a month.

He went and I thought I'd check out the area, decided not to venture to far that night as I'd get lost for sure because everybody and everything looked identical. Just as I was leaving my guesthouse one of the lads who worked at the guesthouse said, You want to visit K11? As soon as he said K11 i knew what he meant, I've heard stories about that place from two people in the UK. You'll find out about K11 later on. I declined the offer and headed across the road to a bar called the Cat house Tavern which is on the corner of Phlauv51 , and It's a very popular haunt for foreigners and expats. Also on Phlauv51 but towards the bottom you have the club, Heart of Darkness, which is also a favorite with foreigners and stays open till 2am and right at the bottom you have the Australian Out Back Bar which is open 24/7.

Squeezed past the doormen and went in through two sets of doors, On entering I noticed how nice the bar was which is a Filipino style bar with mock tropical decor and it served good counter lunches and it had an intimate feel about the place. Took my seat at the bar and ordered a drink, Not cheap for western standards , Cost $4 dollars and they make you pay before you leave and not straight away. At the bar you sit opposite a young Cambodian girl ( 21) where they try and start a conversation weather you like it or not.

Got chatting with my host and found out she was studying English at the local university, after a while she asked if I wanted a game of pool which she said the girls only play for money. I laughed and said I couldn't possibly take your money, she just smiled and brought my drink over to the table and set them up. She then told me the bet. It's $1 dollar a game to play. If she beats me then I have to pay her $1 dollar plus the dollar for the game, If I win I don't have to pay for the game. Sounds a bargain from my point of view, Not!

This place is the only bar that charges for pool. I thought I'd be able to get a few free games but how wrong was I, I lost 5 on the trot and had enough. Every time I tried to pot a ball my cue ball ended up going like a banana, I even looked under the table to make sure she didn't have a friend hidden underneath with a magnet. I paid her the $10 dollars which she has to give $7 to the landlord.

Took my seat back at the bar and got chatting to an Australian chap who works in Phnom Penh for an Australian company, He asked if it was my first visit and where I've been in Cambodia and where I came from. When I told him I'm from the UK he suddenly mentioned that vile name ''Glitter''!

I just said I'd rather not get into a discussion about him if that's OK, His response was, Glitter got punished and served his time and should be left alone to lead a normal life, (apparently Vile man used to drink in a watering hole just behind the outback bar and next to the club ''heart of darkness'' till he got hounded out and crossed the border to Vietnam) ok mate, whatever! Then he asked me if I've heard of a place called K-9? I said I have from people from back home, He said don't ever go there, I said I had no intention of going there because it isn't my scene. Then I replied I had to go and made an exit.

Standing outside I decided to head to the outback bar and walked the 5 minute walk. Went in and it was a massive place, 4 pool tables, a wide screen and a hotel. Stayed till about 1am then headed back home, crashed out and woke at 10am, Went downstairs and Phil was waiting.

Where first?

S-21 the Prison.

The prison entrance is on the western side pf Ph 113, Just north Ph 350 and it cost me $2 entrance fee, I went in and paid for a guide to tell me what exactly what happened, wanted to hear it from someone who had witnessed these vile acts. Each prisoner who passed through S-21 was photographed, sometimes before and after being tortured, Some of the things that the Khmer Rough did was just pure evil and most of the cells still had the dry blood on the floor from the victims.

Altogether a visit to S-21 is a depressing experience. The sheer ordinariness of the place makes it even more horrific, The buildings, The grassy playing area where today children kick a ball around, rusted beds, instruments of torture and wall after wall harrowing black and white pictures conjure up images of humanity at its worst, S-21 isn't for the squeamish.

Glad to leave the place, Came out and headed onto the Killing Fields, The killing fields is just off Choeung EK. Arrived and paid my $2 fee and went in, 17,000 men, women, children including 9 westerns detained and tortured at S-21 were transported to the extermination camp (Killing Fields) and if they weren't already dead then they would be bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting precious bullets. The remains of 8985 people, many of whom were blindfolded and bound were exhumed in 1980 from mass graves in this one time orchard.

43 of the 129 communal graves here have been left untouched, fragments of human bones and teeth and clothing scatter the disinterred pits, I went and saw the glass memorial that holds over 8,000 sculls, arranged by sex and age which are visible behind glass panels.

After seeing the massive of sculls I went for a walk around the graves, Came to a tree and on the tree it had what happens to children, soldiers take it in turns to beat the life out of a young defenseless child against a tree till every bone in their body had been broken then threw their lifeless body into the pit. walked passed another open grave and read the sign which said, 270 headless women. Grave after grave had different horror stories. Just walking around I tried to picture what these poor people went through. truly horrific.

The killing field was so quite, butterflies hovering over the graves, it was so peaceful. I brought a drink and donated $10 for the upkeep of the graves and memorial building and left.

On our back Phil asked if I fancied the military range? I didn't have the energy to do the terrorist thing, I was emotionally drained after today's events, All I wanted was a few beers and relax for the evening. Got in a had a shower and decided I'd send a few e-mail's home to let everyone know I was still alive and well.

Stepped out and tried to find an internet cafe, I've been on some missions before but nothing like this, I walked to the bottom of the road and took a left down a side street and it was just dust and puddles and looked horrible. Walked along and took a right and then a left. I hadn't a clue where i was but knew I'd find an internet cafe sooner rather than later but wanted to be back at my guesthouse before the sun went down as it's not a wise decision to be walking around the back streets of Phnom Penh on your own after dark and after about 20 minutes I found one, Went in and logged on to hotmail, after 5 minutes nothing happened and was getting really fed up so I asked what the problem was and he just shrugged his shoulders, Thanks for the help mate. In Cambodia they've only just got internet so the connection speed is as slow as a snail. After a while I gave up and left without paying. He said that would be $3 so I said $1 and he accepted.

Walked up another side street and found another, went in and logged in and it worked, I meant work as it did after 3 minutes. Sent an e-mail to family letting them know where I am and what my next plans are.

Came out and tried to get back to my guesthouse, what a nightmare!

Walked around for ages and couldn't find any road that looked familiar, Then it was getting dark which wouldn't help at all because the street lighting is very poor and I started having visions of people jumping out of the alleyway's, I walked for an hour and was getting extremely agitated as I kept coming back to where I was and it didn't help matters when I had loads of children on my case asking for money, Everywhere I went they would follow, I even tried to run for it but still couldn't shake the little buggers off.

In the end I went into a shop brought 6 bottles of water and handed it to them, They was well happy with my gifts and we all sat down in the heat and drank and (tried too) talked. I'd rather give them water than money, Because given money to children makes you look guilty even thou your not. It's that people have warped minds,

In the end it took me 3 and half hours to find my guest house which was originally about a 20 minute walk from where i actually was. The problem is everything and everyone looks identical. Talk about losing ones mind.

Back at the guest house and a quick change and decided to check out of pubs, On the way out the same lads said again, K11? I said I haven't been interested and never will so please don't ask me again, One said something and by the expression on his face it wasn't nice, sod him, He's only after commission anyway.

Checked out a few different pubs and meet some interesting people, had a laugh and kept thinking about the following day when I would be a terrorist, got home and crashed out.

I appeared at about 11am and my friend was waiting, He was never early or late, Always on time.

We set of to the army base and I couldn't wait to get to grips with the weapons, as we headed to the base the traffic was bad, It's not uncommon to have someone coming straight at you on the wrong side of the road. At traffic lights both red and green mean 'go.' Anything goes basically, Just don't have an accident.

As the traffic thinned out, needless to say we got lost. No such things as road signs in Cambodia, but he soon got his bearings right in the end.

As we approached the place I then realized we had arrived, At the entrance is a sign which reads '"Special Forces'.' That was me.

On driving through the base I noticed I was the only foreigner there, We pulled up at the main point and descended from the moped, It's a kind of weird place, it has 3 wooden tables and a sheet of metal as a roof. As I sat down I then had a menu thrust in front of me, I was thinking Steak, Beer, Coffee, Just like the menu you get at restaurants at home but this wasn't no ordinary menu. It listed about 40 types of guns, you name it, It had it.

Uzi Machine guns $20
Hand Guns $10
AK-47 =$30
M-16 =$35
Hand Grenades = $15
Rocket Launchers = $150

I sat there and worked out how much money I had and wanted to spend but I was like a kid in a sweet shop, I ordered an AK-47 assault rifle with 3 clips, M-16 assault rifle with 4 clips and 3 hand grenades plus a caliber hand gun with 2 clips.

British army only provide the poor SA80 assault rifle and and never get to handle hand guns. Special forces (SAS) like the M-16 and that there preferred choice.

Before He brought my arsenal of weapons over he brought me into the arms dump, It had everything you could imagine. He got down the Rocket launcher and said $150 dollars and he'll even throw a cow in for that. It was a beauty. I would have to go to the mountains to let it off. I declined because i didn't want to spend to much. But I'll be going back for that little baby.

We went back out and he get me my weapons, I put the AK-47 over my right shoulder and the M-16 over my left, Put the hand gun in my back pocket but he wouldn't let me carry the hand grenades, I didn't want to either, if the pin came lose in my pocket then I'd have googlys blown off.

We made our way over to the range and put my toys to one side and I loaded my clip for the AK-47, The loading of the AK was like the movies, solid metallic click, then he passed it to me, I'm holding the terrorist's favorite weapon, an AK-47, Loaded, with the safety catch off.

I take it and shoot at my target which is 50 meters away, At first he put it on single shot, after the 4th I clicked it to automatic fire, the kickback was strong, more powerfull than an SA80, The bullets were flying in all directions, it was like hundreds of photographers flashing away at the end of the range.

He brought my target up to show me how many hits I had, Not good, Didn't hit it once. Right I thought, He'll get it now with the M-16. Loaded the assault rifle and took aim. I didn't hold back with any single shots, Just automatic fire and let rip with it I did. I was like a man processed. I let the target have it big time. When he returned yet again with my target he just laughed, I could see why, After all those clips I managed to hit the target in the shin.

Didn't do much better with the hand gun, He asked if I would like a new target to shoot at, kept the old one , It seemed like it was smirking at me. He put it up outside on the outside range and was 25 meters away. Put my earmuffs on and took aim. After two clips I still failed to hit it, the soldiers were laughing to themselves. I felt like a right plum.

Now for the Hand Grenades, As we was walking I was being told how to throw them, and had to pay a small fee for his pep talk which i gave 5 dollars.

We came to a pond and I placed the target in the middle and was practicing with stones at first because the soldiers don't want the Grenade dropping down near them. After two practice runs I was ready, Pulled the pin and threw the grenade into the middle of the pond.

I was expecting something like the war films, a massive explosion and a fountain of water of 14ft foot high, It was an anti climax really. You hear a very loud thud and the whole ground around you for a good 20 meters shake, like an earthquake not like any off us has experienced one before, And when it explodes it creates a massive air bubble that rises to the surface. I highly recommend a visit to the army base to everyone.

On our back from the very enjoyable events of the range I told Phil that he could have an early day. He dropped me off and would be back tomorrow, I felt it was time for me to move on as I had to be back in Bangkok in 4 days for my connecting flight to Bali. Wasn't very keen on the idea of Bali as It was only 2 months since it was bombed by Al Qaeda terrorists so everyone or nearly everyone would be still in mourning.



Decided to hit a club tonight and it would be a disaster, Started of in my usual pub then made my way to the outback bar, Had a nice relaxing time and then was going to walk back to the tavern bar, A taxi asked me if I wanted a lift, being lazy I decided. Jumped on the back and of we went. Got to the pub 1 minute later and he demanded 1 dollar. No way, I'll give you 4,000 riel, we had a row over it and i then put the 4,000 riel on a dustbin and said either you can take it or leave it, the decision is yours, I don't mind giving money to people who I think deserve it but when people demand so much or ask then I decide if I shall give and how much.

I'm not out of order for doing that, They try it on all the time. Told a few people what had happened and they said well done and that the going rate from there to here is 2,000 reil. But you've got to watch your back from now on because you've made an enemy. Sitting there having a few drinks I couldn't get him out of my head and felt really uneasy. 11pm and they closed early on a Sunday and then decided to go to the club heart of darkness.

Came out the tavern bar and was walking down towards the Heartiness club and it was pitch black, I suddenly heard a moped behind me and I instantly said to myself it's him!! I had a gut instinct it was. As it was getting nearer I was ready for anything, If he wanted it I would be ready and as the moped drew along beside me and it was him. He started shouting every insult possible at me but I didn't have a clue what any of it meant but knew it was insults by his face impressions and I just stood my ground and didn't say a word but just stared at him and the then zoomed off to the bottom towards his mates.

As I was walking I noticed him talking to his mates and pointing in my direction. I'm in trouble now. a few came back up and got off their mopeds and starting having a right go about the price and I'll put my hands up, I was worried (they don't think twice of slashing or stabbing you) but stood my ground trying to make out I wasn't nervous at all and called their bluff as I wasn't backing down, luckily the girls from the Tavern Bar came past and stopped and backed me up, never needed girl help before but it was very welcomed.

Next morning

Phil was there as usual, Where today? To be honest I didn't have a clue, I had seen what I came for. He mentioned the Kings palace, so thought I'd have a look. As I was getting on his bike he mentioned K-9, I said NO, Please drop that subject. We drove though the city and stopped of for some petrol, It was in the main market and this chap pulled 5 bottles of petrol from under the counter, they was more like petrol bombs. I paid for them and Phil appreciated it, Not only was I paying him $12 dollars day but was also paying for the petrol. Got to the kings palace and paid $5 entrance fee and spent about 20 minutes inside then Came out to scores of beggars, couldn't move, sweat was dripping of me and wanted to get away from them. My little friend appeared and told them not to hassle me and then they dispersed, Jumped on the back and departed and ended up going about 15 miles and stopped at this village, I got off and I was going to meet his family, He had 2 brothers 2 sisters and a wife and daughter.

The brothers were in the army and i said hello to everyone. Was offered a dinner but wasn't hungry so we moved on. After about 25 minutes we came to another village and it was in the middle of nowhere and it was bad, Kids drinking filthy water, it was like a shanty town. It was poverty as its worse.

As we drove in, there was a main stretch of road, Pot holes, Or more like craters, It was dusty and sewage and rubbish lined the sides of the buildings and rats were running freely around like they were pets the size of small cats with little side streets leading off them, the buildings had big metal shutters on them so did the buildings on the side roads. They were like little shops waiting to open for business but it didn't add up to me and something defiantly didn't seem right at all, everything looked so wired and spooky, as we was going down the main street I noticed a pub, the pub was an open plan and it had 11 foreigners drinking in it but no one was speaking to each other and they seem to be waiting for something.

As we drove to the crossroad's I asked why everyone isn't saying anything and where the hell are we as the whole place didn't feel right and why has every building got massive steel shutters on them for with people standing outside, kind of lookouts? My little friend replied this is K11 ( Svay Pak ) and Phil told me the reason why all the buildings have metal shutters is because if the police turn up they can't see nothing and leave but the activates that go on behind these metal shutters have a sinister side to it.

K11, I said you idiot, I told you i didn't want to come here and the place gave me the creeps and none of you have never probably heard of the place before. K11 is a where a minority of people come for prostitutes and not just any prostitutes. This place you can have any female you like, age isn't important.

If you are seeking illegal activities then you'll find it here but moral grounds alone should be enough to deter foreigners from seeking under age sexual partners but unfortunately that isn't enough.

This place is pedophile heaven. It's been on the news back home. Don't get me wrong there are legit people who come here seeking sex with legal partners but you always get the minority who don't and even if you are legit then i would still advice anyone not to visit K11 as people get arrested here quite often and they have to bribe the police whether you are innocent or not.

I said to phil I'd rather we leave now please as I didn't want my picture on the front page of the papers, I was an innocent person who got brought to K11 against my wishes just so phil could make a nice commission if i had slept with a prostitute which i had no intention of doing so from day one of being in Cambodia.

He apologized as he knew i wasn't happy about the whole situation and we left, as we neared the exit of K11 we drove passed this building and the metal shutter was rolling up and I couldn't help but look inside as we passed it and Inside it had a long corridor and it had i would say about 10 rooms, they were like prison cells with metal doors and the occupants standing inside was a total shock.

I don't expect anyone who reads this is ever likely to travel through Cambodia but if you do, then I would defiantly recommend you avoid K11 altogether because It was probably one of the most disturbing things I've ever witnessed in all my time of being a backpacker.

Got back to my guesthouse and told Phil I'll try and get a flight to Bangkok in the morning as there is no way I would go by road and managed to get a flight which cost $140 dollars.

Phil arrived and set of for the airport, on arriving I said bye and it was a pleasure in meeting you and gave him a tip of $30 dollars and all the riel I had left over and then boarded the flight and was back in Bangkok in 2 hours.

Would like to say that Cambodia is a brilliant country. I saw the good, bad and evil side of life on my travel through Cambodia. The only thing that has spoiled Cambodia is Gary Glitter and other nonce's like him for bringing shame on the beautiful country.